You should get a sealing washer with it, I would also recommend using jointing compound on the thread to further stop any leaks.Next, you need to screw in the new element. You can do this using an adjustable spanner to remove the small nut.Then, you will need to remove the cable using a small flathead screwdriver.
From April 2004, new and replacement Immersion Heater Thermostats need to incorporate an overheat safety cut-out so that if the water thermostat fails, the water in the cylinder will not overheat which could cause scalding water to come out of the taps. Immersion heater thermostats are available in various sizes (7, 11, 18 and 27 inches) depending on the manufacturer, model and type of immersion heater - only the correct sized thermostat should be used as a replacement. Or, you may connect it to the ring main circuit, which has all the plug sockets connected. When it’s fully drained down, you should be able to shake the cylinder easily. Keep moving it around so it heats all the brass up evenly.Always use caution when removing the immersion heater thermostat heating element. Make sure that the cable terminals on the thermostat are fully tightened. You can easily damage the copper cylinder, and you might end up having to replace the full cylinder.With the old heating element removed from the hot water cylinder, try to clean up any dirt and debris from inside and around the opening.Once this is done, time to fit the new immersion heater element and thermostat. I don’t recommend using a normal immersion heater spanner, make sure it’s the box spanner type. This is an immersion heater thermostat replacement guide for anyone who is looking to change their immersion heater thermostat and the heating element. Then, open all the hot taps to drain down the water from the header tank.Then, you will need to find the drain off valve. Changing an immersion heater thermostat . From April 2004, new and replacement Immersion Heater Thermostats need to incorporate an overheat safety cut-out so that if the water thermostat fails, the water in the cylinder will not overheat which could cause scalding water to come out of the taps. You might rip the sealing washer, which can prevent you from tightening it back up if it leaks. From April 2004, new and replacement Immersion Heater Thermostats need to incorporate an overheat safety cut-out so that if the water thermostat fails, the water in the cylinder will not overheat which could cause scalding water to … To replace the thermostat in the immersion heater should your water get scalding hot all of a sudden, make sure the electricity to the immersion is off and the fuse in the isolator switch is out. This is an immersion heater thermostat replacement guide for anyone who is looking to change their immersion heater thermostat and the heating element.I am a professional plumber and heating engineer – I get called out to The next step was to isolate the electric supply at the main consumer unit where all the fuses were.Itâs best to just isolate the electric circuit or fuse that the immersion heater thermostat is connected to. You might only need to replace a fuse or find that the fault is somewhere else. This should not be a concern if fitting a newly purchased heater, but don't fit an old, working heater if it does not have a thermal cut-out. It’s sometimes above the cylinder but could be in the loft with the supply tank.If you can not find one, then you will need to turn off the main stopcock that will turn off all the water to the property. You will need to find the isolating valve, or stop tap, on the pipe that supplies the water tank that supplies the hot water cylinder. SUPPLY TO THE IMMERSION HEATER AT THE CONSUMER UNIT - MAKE SURE THAT EVERYONE WITH ACCESS TO THE CONSUMER UNIT IS AWARE YOU HAVE INTENTIONALLY ISOLATED THE IMMERSION HEATER.
You will be able to tell that it’s empty.First, you need to remove the cover off the immersion heater thermostat.
My immersion heater overheats badly and apparently the thermostat is broken and needs replacing. Check for leaks and if all is ok, turn the electric supply back on.Yes Richard, you should definitely get a plumber if you haven’t done anything like this before.Make sure you have done all the checks needed to find out the exact problem before replacing any parts. I recommend getting a VDE insulated screwdriver that will protect you from any electric shocks.To remove the actual heating element from the hot water cylinder, you will need a blowtorch and an immersion heater box spanner.
Sometimes, it may even be connected to the light circuit.If itâs not labelled, keep turning one fuse off at a time. You need to keep trying until you find which circuit has the immersion heater thermostat connected.The next step is to drain down the copper hot water cylinder.
I am a professional plumber and heating engineer – I get called out to boiler repairs and jobs like this regularly.
Or worse still, tear the copper cylinder and ruin your day.You will need to heat the brass heating element using a blowtorch. Replacement thermostats are inexpensive and easy to fit without needing to drain the water. Make sure that the immersion heater being fitted incorporated a thermal cut-out (as well as the thermostat) to comply with current regulation. This is because the heating element seizes on the cylinder and you can easily damage the cylinder if you don’t use a blowtorch to heat it up first.
But you risk getting a leak doing this. Just keep the flame on the brass inside the heating element for a few minutes. If you have an electric immersion water heater and the heater suddenly stops working or the water is scalding hot, the chances are that the thermostat has failed. If you have an old Thermostat without the overheat safety cut-out which you are thinking of fitting, don't - fit a new Thermostat with an overheat cut-out. Be aware !!
Undo the top screw’s of the thermostat cover and you will usually see a cable clamp holding the mains flex in place. Fitting of the replacement thermostat is just the reverse of the removal.
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