They also refer to standards from other organizations (ACCA, ASHRAE, ASTM...) because this is an installation guide, not a complete reference work. Drive staples in at 2-inch intervals where the duct board overlaps. The knurled or indented end of a duct fits into the smooth side of the next duct.
Use a trunk-and-branch duct system to help keep runs of flex duct short. My friend Robert Bean just posted an article about The bottom line in all this is that you get what you pay for.Well, this is quite useful to me, because the old Kraken in my attic desperately needs all of his tentacles replaced. Thanks Push the supply line ends as far as they will go into the interior of the metal duct sleeve.Wrap duct tape three times around the ends of the metal duct sleeve to secure the flex duct connection.Place one 4-inch duct hose clamp around each end of the metal duct sleeve, over the duct tape.
The skinny on that is to make sure you get a good, solid connection between the inner liner and the connector, seal it with mastic or tape, and then bring the insulation and outer jacket over the connection and seal it, too.The fastener that's used most often, plastic zip ties, is only mentioned in the footnotes: "Nonmetallic clamps shall be listed and labeled in accordance with standard UL 181B and marked '181B-C'. Always use a metal butt joint connector if you don't follow the advice above. If you don't want to use nylon ties, you can use metal clamps.
Great post Alison! Seal the finished joint with mastic. The plastic zip ties zipped tight with the tensioner seems like the way to go.When the latest (3rd) edition of Manual D was in development, there was a lot of discussion about friction rates of poorly installed flex. Attaching heating, ventilation and air conditioning ducts may seem like one of the easiest do-it-yourself projects there is. My intallation was only taped together. A Michigan contractor lists one more use for flex duct - moving make-up air. The language is a bit clunky, but the diagram below shows what they mean. Use flex duct supports that are ridged and at 1.5 inch (38 mm) minimum wide (no cloth hangers). It costs more to train employees to do it right. The supports need to be at the manufacturer's recommended spacing, but no longer than 4' maximum. Sink in three screws at equidistant intervals around the diameter of a round duct.
There are better and more effective ways to attach HVAC ducts that will seal and be a permanent solution.Push the ducts together firmly.
I also love Table A1-2 that shows how much doors need to be undercut as effective return air paths - it shows how ridiculous the concept can be.I've found that static and fan watt do not move much when putting in extra metal elbows and such to make the ducts to taut.May we please have discussion of preferred placement of in-attic furnace ducts resting upon and within the floor insulation, as presented here: Your source of knowledge about the world of building science, home energy efficiency, green jobs and more.© 2020, Energy Vanguard | 533 West Howard Avenue, Suite E, Decatur, GA 30030 Insert the crimped end of the round duct into the uncrimped end of the next round duct. Wrap the seam of the ducts with metal duct tape. I fell some air expelling around the collar.
What is the estimated life of zip ties? There you have it. It costs more to train employees to do it right. I've seen several in attics that have broken, due to the heat I assume, so I'm not a fan of them.Stan - We haven't seen any break, but use high quality, heavy duty ties.
This is true of all types of HVAC ducts, including both round and flexible kinds as well as those made of fiberglass board.Insert 1/2-inch self-tapping sheet metal screws through metal ducts where the ends come together. For extra durability, brush on mastic over the screwed-down seam.Dale Yalanovsky has been writing professionally since 1978. living in a hot humid climate, I see the issues caused by lying duct on insulation on attic floor. "The ADC standards provide good guidance for duct installers.
Step 1. It costs more to use materials that are harder to mess up. Hanger shall be of sufficient width to prevent any restriction of the internal diameter of the duct when the weight of the supporting section rests on the hanger. If it's not tight, the friction rate jumps significantly, and that means the air flow takes a hit. We are also in the Pacific NW and 1) most of our duct systems are in crawl spaces, not attics, and 2)our temperatures are fairly mild. Apply two pieces of 8-inch-long tape (minimum) lengthwise, equally spaced from the edges and no more than 12 inches apart, on the top and the bottom. Here are my recommendations: Don't install single runs of flex duct that two or more pieces are so long that they need to be patched together. The diagram below shows that if a flex duct has even 15% longitudinal compression, the friction rate doubles.
Wrap tape over the entire seam and cover the cross-tabbed pieces for extra durability.
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